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My experience with other cars says yes, the quick way to know would be to pull off the inside A pillar and check if it's a mirror opposite of the other side. By the way, these wires stayed behind this A pillar for probably 5 years with no issues. The Hawaii UV rays killed the wires before any wires rubbed through on the A pillar anywhere

@@LegitRaceCraft hmh good to know! Ill probably have mine covered in loom up until til entry point. Ill see what i get myself into

@@wilfredomedina3776 here is a link to the materials. www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/14404-How-to-build-your-own-tacho-adaptor And here is a link to the diagram www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual_files/HiVTacho.GIF

Thank you for your comment, if you're having trouble with the link then either go to this site directly www.hournineracecraft.com/2JZ_reshim or try opening it in edge. Chrome and Firefox both try to block the spreadsheet from downloading

lol, yessir. It's still rolling around on the island here. I sold it to a friend

I have a better mic now, this was probably my last video posted while using the mic on the camera

This is why oem manufacturers have a primary and secondary apps sensor, there are two apps circuits in the same sensor. Oem setups compare readings to each other and so does haltech. Haltech also has a monitoring curcuit that error checks the apps signals constantly. Which is why Haltech requires apps 1 and 2 to be on specific inputs, they can't be wired to a different input and still function, you aren't even allowed to select other inputs in the software. Haltech put up a video explaining all of their failsafes built into this type of setup. My old chevelle had a stuck throttle cable causing it to get stuck wot, so even cable setups can fail. Given, it was older, but still. Comparing an aftermarket cable setup to a drive-by-wire, I'll take drive-by-wire anyday lol, as long as it's controlled by haltech

@@LegitRaceCraft This sounds like a sensor check failsafe but what about an electronic signal in the module that “breaks” or freezes (much like a computer screen) where the torque request is frozen at WOT? Basically, is there another RAM area of the ECU that monitor the functional/base layer of the ECU that actually controls the inputs/sensors and outputs/actuators?

@@755hp yes, haltech has a dedicated monitor thats sole purpose is to perform error checking between the two apps sensors functions. I believe they call it a "supervisor processor", but it's been a while since I read up on it. You should check out some of haltech's videos on this, they talk about the safety features. As far as the ecu "freezing", these really don't fail very often at all. They are highly reliable, so the chances of it freezing aren't common

No, but I did go to school for this stuff

@@LegitRaceCraft Where?

@@755hp EFI University, highly recommend. Ben Strader is a genius

Automatic IS300s pull the speed signal from the ABS, manual versions pull the speed from a speed sensor on the transmission. Mine is a factory manual, so it pulls speed from the transmission. I started to set it up with a Dakota Digital converter so I could convert my T56 speed signal to something the IS300 cluster could understand, but I ended up not even setting it up. I just ran an extra output wire from my Haltech to my speedometer and set up a basic frequency table so my speedo works again. The handbrake light routes through the ABS, so I still need to rewire this. The "brake" light on the cluster stays on when the car is on.

Dude, good to know! I haven't been working on my car that much recently. I've only got a few hours a week to spare, but I'm almost done. I don't even think I've torqued my drain plug yet

@@LegitRaceCraft hey same here man, I haven't been able to work on mine at all for a long time! But I just wanted to give you the heads up, I've switched to just a standard, non magnetic steel drain plug from Autozone since my Greddy one fell to pieces😂 I was torquing mine to the proper spec, I believe it's 18 ft lbs

@@TunerFaction I still had my old package that it came in, I put my old OEM bolt in the package and hung it by my tools..On the back in Japanese is says 2.5-4 kgfm, which is approximately 18-28 ft lbs. So it's definitely weird that yours broke after torquing to 18 and then loosening. Even if your wrench is out of calibration, there's no way it would be more than 10ftlbs off. So I'm confused lol, hopefully it's just a dud

@@LegitRaceCraft I think it's a dud too!

I had a rav4 that someone gave me that needed more work than it was worth (head gasket blew after the head warped and pinched the head bolts, head couldn't be removed). I parted out the whole car instead and I kept the harness. The is300 harness has short wires and long wires going to/from the ecu since the ecu is in the engine bay. Some wires are too short to extend as far as I wanted while keeping the colors the same. Some wires were only a couple feet long and I needed to add about 5 feet. Between the rav4 harness and the tacoma harness I bought there were enough wire colors that were the same. The tacoma had some heavier gauge wires leading to it's individual coil setup, the power and grounds were already bundled together from the factory, I just needed to cut them to length

@@LegitRaceCraft ahhh gotcha, thanks for the clarification. Im not expecting my work to be too complicated.

@@Genevagirls-h2x it's not complicated, it's just time intensive. I went above and beyond trying to keep my wire colors the same. I ended up making my wires too long since I didn't know where I wanted to mount my OEM ECU. So I ended up shortening all of the wires to remove maybe 3 ft from each.

do you mean GTE VVTi cams in a GE? Yes. The intake cam is practically identical, but the exhaust cam has a longer duration. I'd only install the exhaust cam if I were to do it, but yes, it'll fit.

@@LegitRaceCraft i don’t need to tune or use a different sensor ?

@@shootingstarstv2309 the sensor is on the intake cam side, so the sensor won't need changing, but it's the same cam anyway. The only thing you'll need to do is check your valve lash with a feeler gauge. It should be close to tolerance still, it's keep the OEM GE intake cam so you don't need to measure or possibly reshim the valves. And supposedly the cam sensor sits a different distance from the intake cam, but I don't even know it that's true or hear-say. If you keep your intake cam then it won't make a difference anyway. Just swap the exhaust one out if you want, most people consider this a small upgrade that isn't worth the effort, but the GTE VVTi cam is cheap enough that it's not a big deal.

@@LegitRaceCraft so you don’t think it’ll help if changing the exhaust side. i’m doing valve seal and coil packs. should i do ignition coils

@@shootingstarstv2309 It would make a very small difference. I've seen people argue back and forth online about whether or not swapping for the GTE cams is beneficial. All I can say for sure is that the cam duration is longer, which will help with spooling a turbo. You will need to check your valve lash with a feeler gauge when installing the new cam also though. As far as the coil packs, if you're still using the OEM ECU, then keep the OEM coils. If you need to replace one, then only use OEM. If you have a standalone, then definitely install something like Yaris individual coils. They're cheap and worth the upgrade. But like I said, if OEM ECU, then stick with OEM brand coils

Look up a parts diagram like the one below, I'm not sure what part exactly you're talking about since number 45 and number 47 on this link fit your description. www.firstclassmotorcycles.com.au/partFinder/fiche/yamaha/1992/fzr600/carburetor

Sorry for the late response. No I didn't need to cut anything. I think all I did that the instructions didn't mention was secure the clutch line inside the bell housing

The kit has held up perfectly. No issues at all. I think I had 150k miles on the fj cruiser during this video, and I'm at 175k now

@@LegitRaceCraftamazing thank you so much for the update. Love the channel. I’ll take the jump and do the install then.

Thank you!

It was a lot of welding on the subframe. There used to be a lot of info on fzronline and fzrarchives forums, but those closed down a long time ago. There is a Facebook group for the fzr, but it doesn't have as much information as the old forums did